Laon to Corbeny

Le Chemin des Dames

Up at 6 to make an early start and get as far as possible before it gets hot. We had breakfast in the room and another from a boulangerie as we left town.

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Today's date: 21.7.20

Weather: sunny and warm

Steps: 37,050

Distance: 28 km

Climbing: 352 m

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For the first hour the via winds through woodland, but opens up to provide a view back to Laon and the Cathedral.

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We took a break in the lively village of Bruyeres-et-Montberault. There were lots of nice houses and plenty of people about. The countryside was full of variety with different crops and gently rolling fields and woodland.

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We stopped for a picnic lunch by a lake in Chamouille on the river Ailette. There is a Centre-Parcs on the lake and there is a long bike and walking path that runs parallel to the river and along the valley.

The walk along the path was easy and made for a pleasant early afternoon. The trail passed the ruined Abbey of Vauclair and rose onto the Chemin des Dames.

The Chemin des Dames runs along a series of hills between the Aisne and Ailette valley. It was in the French section of the line in WW1 and the site of 3 major battles.

The walk was beautiful but long with woodland paths that seemed endless.

There is a cross as you enter Corbeny and we saw our first vineyard.

This was a surprising day. It looked on the map like we would be walking through a wilderness of wheatfields all day. There were very few villages, but the landscape kept us interested and there was more woodland than farmland.

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Logis hotel Chemin des Dames Corbeny

Our hotel also serves as village bar, shop and restaurant. And it brews beer and does pizzas to go. It's that kind of village, there really is nothing for miles.

Supper of omelettes and salad in the hotel dining room. There are 6 other guests in the hotel. It is a very homely place and it is nice to see it busy.

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